TEAMASCENT www.teamascent.co.uk

Climbing is ace, but its our community thats perfect!

2012-01-30T12:02:00.000-08:00

We all led a few previously unclimbed pitches today. I was with Andy and Dave. Our pal John was in same local corrie. The climbing is pretty good right now but man, it's our climbing friends that make it all so perfect! Its an international scene and we are all so lucky!
Lots of windslab around on the corrie rims... and lower to around 600 metres or so...... stay sharp!

Cairngorm day

2012-01-29T10:58:00.000-08:00

Another nice day in the Northern Corries!.

Neil on Claude on a belay stance.

Spiral Gully

2012-01-28T11:40:00.000-08:00

With Neil and Kelvin we climbed Spiral Gully, conditions are sporting, turf well frozen and where ice exists , its good!

Northern Corries, Cairngorm

2012-01-26T09:29:00.000-08:00

Conditions are thin but not so bad. Turf is well frozen but there is a lack of consolidated snow. Gully exits and scarp slopes of a Northerly aspect have pillows of poorly bonded wind slab and were worthy of respect and required very careful route choice today!

Chris in Crotched Gully. The steep traverse pitch going rightward and the top of the first snow bay was awkward and very thin today, much harder than it's grade.

North West

2012-01-25T11:18:00.001-08:00

Quite a rewarming occurred over Scotland and the Cairngorms so we headed West. Snow tonight though, so fingers are crossed!

Central Gully

2012-01-24T08:50:00.000-08:00

Chris climbing in Central gully , it's in thin conditions just now so gives some nice and interesting ice pitches.

Lurcher's Crag

2012-01-23T08:51:00.000-08:00

This West-South-West facing cliff lies on the flank of the Lairig Ghru. We climbed Central Gully today which has two good ice pitches although the lower pitch had to be avoided today as the ice was very thin. The upper pitch was just OK. Its grade III with two stars. It's graded as a IV in the SMC Scottish Winter climbs guide which makes me feel a bit better as I thought it was a bit harder than a three today!
The route was first climbed by B. Taplin and O. Ludlow on the 4th March 1970 and is a nice adventure.

Corie an t Sneachda

2012-01-22T10:44:00.000-08:00

Today we climbed in the Northern Corries of the Grampian mountains, otherwise known as the Cairngorms. These photos are of Chris on Spiral Gully with variations... its very thin but sporty, turf frozen with really very little consolidated snow. Some of my friends went over to Hells Lum and hoped to do Brimstone Grooves, but they found the ice very friable with water and slush below... so backed off! They reported that the cornices are large with lots of deep snow. On corrie rims there is lots of snow on lee slopes!

A'Phocaid, Lairig Ghru to Glen Feshie

2012-01-14T09:59:00.000-08:00

Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

With John we climbed a nice grade III on A'Pocaid. Its a long walk in but made easier by the lack of snow and the wonderful new path built last year.Once there the conditions were not so bad. We had wished to climb Spy Glass gully which was first climbed by Simon Richardson and Chris Cartwright, but the first pitch was barely there with lots of water running below the fragile ice. I spotted an interesting looking line on a buttress back to the south so we climbed that in four pitches. A wonderful day!

Pitch 4

2012-01-10T07:18:00.000-08:00

Opposite photo, we jumped and jumped on this small cornice today and it would not move...

Nice walking and high up there is still quite a bit of snow. This photo :taken from Craig Moseen looking towards Broad Cairn. The rising path comes from the Spittal of Glenmuick along the Loch side and up Corrie Chas to the col between Sandy Hillock and Broad Cairn.

Glenshee

2012-01-09T10:03:00.000-08:00

Quite nice snow cover high up!

Lucky us!

2012-01-08T09:24:00.000-08:00

Climbed this interesting line today with Andy, it goes at IV/4 and my pitch was thin, the crux and poorly protected. Great value really as we thought the day would be a bit of a wash out! Lucky us and our tenacity paid off. I think it would be a tricky grade III in proper freezing conditions, but we gave it a IV as thats how we found it and the convention. We still have to name it!

Lairig Ghru

2012-01-07T08:40:00.000-08:00

Was in here today and had good look at Lurchers and Sron na Lairige, but it was not as sheltered and out of the wind as we had hoped and after pottering about we walked out again.

Looking up at Lurchers, ice thin but existing! Steeper lines not complete.

Lurchers

Sron na Lairige.

Bad viz day... again!!!

2012-01-05T08:20:00.000-08:00

Interesting time in the Cairngorms, the weather is all over the place. Lots of fresh snow in the car park at Cairngorm this morning, then by mid afternoon the freezing level had gone up and it was semi thawing around car park level but freezing and so cold with the wind chill a few hundred metres higher. Could not see so much today but there is a good base of snow forming and its looking good, the freezing level is due to come down again so once the winds die down, its looking promising!!!

Indictaors of interest.

2012-01-02T08:09:00.000-08:00

As we travel through the mountains there are many ways nature has of letting us know whats been going on with the conditions...
In the above photo, (a bit hard to see in the mist) the snow has been blown from the wind exposed right side into the lee slope on the left of the photo....

The snow adhering to the tree trunk shows wind direction and moisture content of the new snow. The slope behind the tree is blown clear of snow, one has to ask, where has it gone? This wind blown snow eroded from the slope behind will be wind slab laying on a lee slope somewhere else!

Stac Pollaidh

2011-12-31T10:30:00.000-08:00

An easy kind of exploration today up the North West of this fantastic country!!!The innocent crystals below have survived the thaw so far, make sure you do.... Happy New Year!!!!!

Northern Corries: Interesting climbing conditions

2011-12-30T09:27:00.000-08:00

The snow fall of yesterday and the freeze have kind of helped the climbing conditions although its nothing startling, but some of the climbs are white and around 1050m the turf is semi OK so there are some good adventures to be had! There were many people climbing today on many different grades of climbs and there was some bold teams who broke trail through the windslab to the foot of Fiacaill Couloir etc... Interestingly enough while the apron looked loaded the top of of the crag around Invernookie and all looked rather black! By lunch time the snow had started to fall again and the wind blew from a Southerly direction which caused lots of drifting from the plateau. Down at the car park the thaw had started and the roads were very slushy on the drive back home!An experience enhancing day!

Crisp , cold day

2011-12-27T07:37:00.000-08:00

Nice day out the the Cairngorms with Matt today, soloed around and roped up for some technical pitches. The turf is still frozen in most places high up and any remaining snow is good neve... a shower of snow and all could be pretty good again!

Matt trying to be less bombastic!!!

A dreadful thaw but there are still adventures to be had!

2011-12-23T10:16:00.000-08:00

The recent thaw really has striped many climbs, but Andy N and I thought we would take a wander about the Cairngorms this morning. It was a cold westerly wind and freezing high up! There is still some ice about and the turf remains well frozen.. A big shower of snow and all will be reasonable again!!!
Andy on the Sneer

We climbed up the Runnel and the Sneer today... a nice day out! Some breaks in the gullies!

Echoes of a Dream

2011-12-22T14:51:00.000-08:00

Alan Richard Mchardy has published his book. Its a captivating account of Richards amazing life so far! Outstandingly bold first ascents, a true account of the development of British Rock Climbing in the 1950s through to the present day! Please check out and buy it on http://www.echoesofadream.co.uk/

Thawing conditions

2011-12-21T13:29:00.000-08:00

Thank goodness for Gore Tex and Mountain Equipment, damp and windy, testing conditions on the hills today.

The rime ice is gone from all the snow fences at Glenshee, but the runs are remain fine good with a reasonable amount of snow.

Lochnagar

2011-12-20T12:36:00.000-08:00

Some photo taken at Lochnagar today.
High up there is lots of snow.

Above: Lochnagar.

Bad Vis day

2011-12-19T07:56:00.000-08:00

Kind of stormy day for the snow pit and later we became involved in a search for two lost skiers, so its been an interesting day! Everyone found safe and well!

Stellar day!

2011-12-18T07:52:00.000-08:00

A really nice day in the hills today! Instabilities in the snow pack were easily triggered!

First thing in the morning, one is reminded that its a good idea to close the windows!

High up the snow cover is pretty good!

First day of the forcasting season for me.

2011-12-17T07:34:00.001-08:00

I have had the most dreadful cold which prevented me from joining my buddy Alan at the start of this years Scottish Avalanche Information Service avalanche reports for South Cairngorm. I was delighted to get on the hill today and immediately the Scottish snow pack had some interesting information to share!

Our shovel tap test gave some easy shears within the snow pack today. Isolated areas of wind slab have formed on Southerly aspects... and the temperature gradient is interesting! If you are skiing off-piste keep your awareness switched on !

Offshore Industrial Rope Access

2011-12-05T10:44:00.000-08:00

Steve and Lee at work on a crane boom.

Utilising a combination of climbing and caving techniques to reach awkward places!

A simple life!

2011-12-01T11:22:00.000-08:00

My friend Alan would prefer to be on his skis at times like this!

2011-11-15T15:45:00.000-08:00

Enjoyed some wonderfull sport climbs today with my old pal Andy Nisbet around Gairloch on the west of Scotland. The two photos below were taken near Poolewe.

Moy Rock

2011-11-01T11:47:00.000-07:00

For November in Scotland, the weather was excellent and the rock bone dry today . This is a south facing conglomerate crag some 15 miles north of Inverness.

Caspian Sea

2011-10-26T15:59:00.000-07:00

Some aged and some new oil platforms

Baku: The Flame Towers

2011-10-20T16:06:00.000-07:00

Baku is the scientific, cultural and industrial centre of Azerbaijan.The inner city along with the Shiruashah's palace and Maiden tower are UNESCO world heritage sites. Below are pictures of the Flame tower which is one of the many current building projects going on in this city. It will eventually be a residential complex with a roof height of 182 m ( 597 ft.) The estimated cost of construction was US$350 million. Construction commenced in 2008 with a completion date 2011.

An artists impression of the completed structure.

October winter.

2011-10-18T11:21:00.000-07:00

Snow on the hilll tops around Kincarig near Aviemore. Winter is coming!

Moy sports crag

2011-10-12T11:04:00.000-07:00

A greet day today climbing with my pals at Moy, just North of Inverness. This conglomerate crag has been bolted and holds some interesting sport climbs and several trad. routes also...

John climbing.

An exemplary vegatable

2011-10-11T05:56:00.000-07:00

It ace to be back at home and today and I found the time to dig up my potato's. Lady Charlotte and all those other interesting names for the humble potato...question is: can one climb to grade 7a on such a diet?....Hamish Macinnes once said that if they had another bag of potatoes he along with John Cunningham would have been able to summit Pumori!

Mont Charvatton, Valle d'Aosta

2011-10-04T06:49:00.000-07:00

Erca on the lead!

If you drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel and stay on the auto route for about an hour and turn off at Verres, then head up into the picturesque Valle de Champrozer you will find delightfull Italian hamlets, farmers with their tiny four wheel drive Ferrari tractors and some ace rock climbing. Erica and I had an ace day yesterday climbing a 12 pitch sport route called "40 Anni di Emozion", its graded 6c and justifes the grade.... The rock and climbing is truly ace although we found the guide book discription and quality of bolts not so great... The descent is via absiel down a line called "Tommy".If you can take a photo like this as you are about half way absieing down after competing your climb it means you have been caught in the dark!!! Ha ha, this of course adds to the adventure and like all good mountaineers our only head torch was in my rucksac at the bottom and start of our route!!!! Never the less, this justified a vist to a local Pizza place where the wine and sea food pizza tasted amazing! To add further insult and complications to an outstanding day there were road works in the Mont Blanc tunnel so we did not get back to Chamonix until the wee early hours.... an ace and perfect exciting day!

Petit bargy, rock climbing on Pegase

2011-09-27T12:01:00.000-07:00

A perfect day, climbing on an ace crag with a good pal... We were at a crag above the village of Mont Saxonnex ( la Clusaz, Grand Bornand). Pegase is a three star 6a route with some botls but mainly trad. From the ground upwards all the pitches are truly superb. Although some of the pitches seemed very stiff for 6a! Nevertheless, an exciting and most enjoyable adventure! The climb is on a steep limestone crag in this perfect setting
.

Erica climbing in ace form!

We made a slight route finding error but got back on line with a bold traverse!

Sports climbing, Machaby, Italy

2011-09-26T13:08:00.000-07:00

With Erica we did a ten pitch route at Machaby today, ace weather, great climbing!

Erica leads the crux pitch!

Such fantastic rock, a memorable day....The climb was named Tika Saab.

Rope Access in France

2011-09-25T11:33:00.000-07:00

I was assessing at Absolutio (Industrial Rope Access) in the Ardeche on Saturday. Its a very impressive set up with split level flooring which is great for training and assessing. The centre is manged by IFMGA mountain guide and IRATA member Bertrand Frayon. As part of the training course the candidates get the opportunity to abseil down a 180 m rock cliff to the river bank.The split level training area means that the candidates practise the skills at height but are always closley supervised by their instructors.

The company logo and web site!

The big abseil!

Chamonix days

2011-09-23T05:21:00.000-07:00

Wonderful life!

Chamonix, Mont Blanc

2011-09-22T07:38:00.000-07:00

As always, lucky us, the weather improved and we have had an ace time in the mountains..... Elsie on the Cosmiques Arete this morning.

Elsie climbing.

Dani, Alaisdair and Elsie abseiling yesterday!

Finale, Italy

2011-09-22T07:25:00.000-07:00

Really poor weather in Chamonix during the earlier part of this week encouraged us to go bolt clipping at Finale, Italy. It was ace! Alisdair leading an interesting pitch.

Elsie climbing on the most superb limestone!

Dani enjoying the rock!

Breithorn and Pollux

2011-09-08T06:04:00.000-07:00

Windy on Pullux this morning but Matt and I enjoyed it!

Matt outside the Ayas hut (Italy) yersterday afternoon.

Matt and I on the summit of the Briethorn yesterday.... Matt was sitting behind his computer in New York a couple of days ago, Swiss Air got him to Geneva and here he is on his first 4000 meter Alpine Peak.... Good effort!

An ace day on the Paridiso

2011-09-06T13:20:00.000-07:00

Fantastc weather, zero wind, clear and kind of freezing on the summit today with Jonathan and Andrew.

People everywhere!

Passy

2011-09-04T09:27:00.000-07:00

A rainy day here in Chamonix, we were supposed to be on Mont Blanc but the conditions of the Goutier route via the Grand couloir are dangerous with rock fall, this plus the rainy weather is not going to allow an ascent . The wise, sensible and prudent choice was to do a via ferrata at Passy today and we are thinking about heading over to Italy for a couple of days!

" The mountains are there forever, just make sure you are...." Don Whillans said that!

Rock Climbing

2011-08-29T12:48:00.000-07:00

Nice climbing on limestone crags near Lesyin today.

IRATA: Rope access and work positioning

2011-08-27T01:14:00.000-07:00

Was at Talon NDT training centre uesterday in Aberdeen. http://www.talonndt.co.uk Ascending over a sharp edge and replacing his rope protection.

Hands free work positioning on the tower.

Kilt Rock, Isle of Skye

2011-08-24T14:00:00.000-07:00

Dolerite sills are intruded into the sedimentary rocks of Trotternish from Portree Northwards and the better outcrops give some superb rock climbing on parallel grooves and cracks of the columns. The most famous is Kilt Rock and we were fortunate to have a rain free morning (almost!), so were able to climbed there today.

Grey Pather, a three star E1,5b.. the first ascent was by Ed Grindley, Noel Williams, Willie Jeffrey and Peter Hunter on the 9th July 1983.

Neist Point, Isle of Skye

2011-08-24T13:43:00.000-07:00

The most westerly point of the Isle of Skye is Neist Point. The rock is dolerite and gives some great rock climbing. We went to the Financial sector yersterday and had an amazing day of fantastic climbing! Andy (L) and myself at Neist point last night, the outer Hebredies behind.

Andy on Insider Dealing (I think)

A fistfull of Dollarite E1,5b

A time for everything!

2011-08-21T14:47:00.000-07:00

We had a wonderful gathering on one of the hills behind Newtonmore yesteday...... a fitting send off to close a celebration of an outstanding man, his life and his work... Alan Blackshaw, 7 April 1933 / 4 August 2011 in my heart and mind forever!

Wonderul Mont Blanc

2011-08-18T06:10:00.000-07:00

Its not often that the weather is stable enough to climb Mont Blanc late in the evening but yesterday the 17th Aug was such and occasion. We summited at 7.00 pm and enjoyed wonderful sun set on the descent back to the Goutier Hut where we spent an ace night!

Anthony leads the way with Mark and then John descending from the summit.
You may be wondering why I had three people on my rope, but Luke had to turn back with altitude sickness and Denis a French guide who was working with me and guiding John and Mark, took Luke back down and I continued Anthpony, John and mark on my rope. Luke is fine now although a bit dissapointed with not reaching the summit. He did enjoy the hellicopter ride from the Goutier and blames it all on a hastly eaten Ommlete washed down with a coke from at the Goutier at around lunch time.We all had the meal though so we cannot really blame the cook!

Mark, Anthony, John and myself on the summit.... this photo was taken by Goulven Cucon a Swiss guide who was also working there ..... an ace office!

Ecole de Galce and an acclimatisation peak

2011-08-16T10:17:00.000-07:00

We have been up on the glacier du Tour for a few days. These young Marmots were truly entertaining!

Crampon and ice axe skills on the glacier ice!

From Left to Right, back row Mark, Luke and Antony, in front is John on the summit of Aig du Tour earlier today!

Vallee Blanche, Chamonix

2011-08-14T08:41:00.000-07:00

Well, could have been anywhere today.... but oh, they do make ace coffee and hot chocolate at the Helbronner cafe! From L to R, Anthony, Mark, John and Luke traversing the Vallee Blanche today.

Pierre du Moelle, Leysin.

2011-08-13T14:25:00.000-07:00

After our climb on the Dent Blanche we drove back and enjoyed great company and comfort at the Chalet Ermina in Leysin http://www.ermina.ch./
After a brilliant nights sleep and wonderful breakfast we spent the day climbing on one of the local crags. Pierre du Moelle is a nice friendly "Tolkenesque" sort of place with nice climbing on limestone and was a wonderful end to two weeks of great mountaineering adventured with Matt. I am going to miss his company a lot!

Dent Blanche climb

2011-08-13T14:17:00.000-07:00

On the 12 Aug we climbed the Dent Blanche 4357m. its quite ace.

Sean on the summit ridge

Sean and I on the summit.

First ascent of the Dent Blanche was by the South ridge by T S Kennedy, W. Wigram with guides J B Croz and J Kronig, 18 July 1862. TIts given grade of AD 111.

Dent Blanche

2011-08-13T14:10:00.000-07:00

On the 11 Aug Matt and I drove round to Switzerland and walked up to the Dent Blanche hut, its a tough walk but well worth the effort. The Dent Blanche is 4357 m an isoltaed giant and amongst the most beautiful of the Alpine peaks.

Matt enjoying a well deserved shandy at the hut.

Arete des Cosmiques. Chamonix, Mont Blanc

2011-08-10T03:05:00.000-07:00

This morning Matt and I climbed the Arete des Cosmiques, an ace day and climb and at long last we had some nice weather. Cold on the summits though!

Aigulles Rouges

2011-08-09T05:52:00.000-07:00

Today we climbed the Mani Puliti in the Aig. Rouges. First ascent was by Michel Piola in August 1999 giving it 5b.

Swiss Rock

2011-08-08T13:02:00.000-07:00

Went cragging in Switzreland today and had some good climbing between the showers!

North Face Gran Paridiso 4061m

2011-08-07T00:57:00.000-07:00

Rain in Chamonix this Sunday morning but Matt and I were lucky yesterday as we managed to get the N face of The Gran Paridiso climbed. Conditions were OK but not great although the weather window was long enough! The conditions have changed a lot in the last week leaving the face icy. Matt on the climb, with the Refugio Chabot in the far distance.

Matt on his first North face!

Matt on the summit.

Rock climbing in the sun

2011-08-04T12:07:00.000-07:00

Matt on Index.

Traverse of Mont Blanc

2011-08-01T12:35:00.000-07:00

With Rosie and Kathryn we traversed Mont Blanc yesterday from the Refuge des Cosmiques, over Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and on to the summit of Mont Blanc. We descended via the Goutier route. An ace time, although we missed Jo so much! At least she got home in time for work and I am still not sure how the others got on with missing their BA flight! But the weather and conditions improved a lot after our ascent of the Grand Paridiso, and even although their organised time with me was over, they decided to change plans and loose their free weekend to attempt Mont Blanc. Due to the last minute change of plans we were unable to find an extra guide for Jo.....

Rosie( Blue M.E. jacket) and Kathryn climbing up the breche du Mont Maudit.

Kathryn, (Orange jacket) and Rosie on the summit.

A good time was had by all, its ace being a mountain guide!

Gran Paradis, Italy

2011-07-29T11:20:00.000-07:00

Yesterday we walked up to the Chabot hut in the rain and enjoyed the hut and the good company there and by the morning our clothes were reasonably dry! We had breakfast at 4.00 am and summited at 10am or there abouts in glorious weather, the ladies were ace and did well! We descended by the Victor Emanuelle hut where feet were cooled in the lake!

(Left to R) Kathryn , Jo and Rosie on top

Jo followed by Kathryn on the scramble to the summit, Rosie in front.

Nice days on the hill!

2011-07-27T08:46:00.000-07:00

With Rosie, Jo and Kathryn we have had some nice days, the weather is a bit unsettled but we have manged to get some summits in! Rosie (orange climbing helmet) and Jo climbing on the Tete Blanche this morning!

Kathryn, Jo and Rosie ready to leave the Cab du Trient at 5.45 am today! We climbed the Tete Blanche and Petit Fourche.

On the Aig du Tour Summit yesterday.

Women with attitude

2011-07-24T09:52:00.000-07:00

Love it, no attitude no altitude. Fresh snow in Chamonix and the first photo (below) was taken this morning from the Montenvers train. This is the Aig. Rouge and normally at this time in July one can walk to the rock climbs there in sandals!!! The Aig Rouge this morning... its July!!!!!

Kathryn, Jo and Rosie on the Mer de Glace today!
Wise girls choose Mountain Equipment Jackets!

Rope Access

2011-07-23T01:37:00.000-07:00

Technicians from The Reel Groups newly established division based in Mumbai, India demonstrating their skills at Talon NDT Limited in Aberdeen yesterday.

Evolution... from Left to Right, The Petzl Stop, The Petzl ID ( one of the first self locking descenders), HiTechs Prisim, and then on the far right the Petzl Rig. Petzl seem to stay ahead with their innovative, compact, simple and effective design!

Grand Paradiso from the Chabod mountain hut

2011-07-21T09:11:00.000-07:00

Above, Chris on the summit.

Unsettled weather here in Chamonix but over the past two days Chris and I went around to Italy and we were lucky with the weather and summited the Grand Paridiso.

The refuge Chabot with the Grand Paridiso behind.

Aig du Tour and all

2011-07-19T03:47:00.000-07:00

On the 17 th July we left Chamonix in the rain and walked to the Albert 1er refuge, arrived at the hut to find it very busy with wet mountaineering gear hanging everywhere to dry. The morning was still not very nice with fresh snow down to about 2200 metres. We left the hut navigating and fortunately our perseverance paid of as the sun burt off the cloud and the snow showers. We summited on the Aig du Tour and then traversed the Plateau du Trient to over night at the Cabane du Trient.... the wind was South Westerly and the fresh transported snow has formed some large patches of wind slab on the higher cols.
Today we climbed the ridge on the Tete Blanche and got back to Chamonix as the rain began to fall again. The forecast is not good for the following days. Chris on the Tete Blanche

Chris on the Aig du Tour summit yesterday

Introductory Chamonix rock climbing

2011-07-16T09:50:00.000-07:00

Chris on the rock this afternoon!

Bernese Oberland, Monch and interesing weather.

2011-07-16T09:42:00.000-07:00

On the summit of the Monch

Looking back down the ridge that leads to the summit of the Monch as another guided party approaches. The Alpine Chough was enjoying the thermals!

Arriving at the Monch Hutte in Scottish weather!

Swiss summits

2011-07-12T07:47:00.000-07:00

Over the past few days we have been mountaineering in Switzerland. Its been ace weather although forecast to break tonight with a very stormy day tomorrow. We are holed up in a nice hotel in Saas Fee.... Liz and Nigel on the summit of Pointes de Mouriti 3564 m. We climbed this interesting peak from the Cab de Moiry 2825m.

Nigel on the summit of the Pigne de la Le 3396m also climbed from the Cab de Moiry

Nigel on the summit of the Allalinhorn 4027m this morning 12th July.

Mont Blanc summit and other days

2011-07-09T01:40:00.000-07:00

Enjoyed a few days of good guiding work! Was on the trois Mont Blanc with Chris and Joe and we summit ed on the 7th July and descended via the Goutier ridge and the dreaded Grand couloir where stone fall was impressive. Petzl have funded a study, so we met an interesting lady who is employed to count falling rocks and trying to track them! Yesterday with Andrew we were on the Petit Aig Verte, an ace little ridge and climb! Joe and Chris on the summit of Mont Blanc

Andrew on the Petit Aig Verte.

Arete des Cosmiques. Chamonix Mont Blanc

2011-07-06T06:22:00.000-07:00

We met at the bottom of the Aig du Midi cable car at 6.15 am this morning with a plan to climb Mont Blanc from the first cable car, but we could see from the clouds that the weather was not as expected , so we headed up with the thought that we may be able to get up Mont Blanc du Tacul. However part way up that we met groups turning back informing us that the wind was very strong higher up, so we made an executive decision and turned around in the hope that we would have time for another climb instead. Chris and Joe had not done any technical climbs before so we decided to try the Arete des Cosmiques and it turned out to be ace! As we reached the top it became quite windy with light flurries of snow, sharp needle flakes in fact that were clearly visible on the sleeve of my Mountain Equipment jacket! Joe( in the black jacket) and Chris climbing.

Excellent mountaineering!

Trois Mont Blanc

2011-07-02T05:31:00.000-07:00

Just back down in Chamonix town after guiding the three Mont Blancs from the Cosmiques hut to the Goutier and down to Les Houches. Was very windy on the summit yesterday at 8.25 am. On the summit of Mont Blanc, with Leo and Nigel. I had to do an emergency repair on my gore tex trousers with hockey tape( thanks for that tip Chick it works well in the cold and held in the 5o k/hr winds.!). There was me saving some cash by buying a cheap pair of over trousers from Sport Extreme, while waiting for my new Mountain Equipment ones to arrive in the post.... So, I did not even get one Mont Blanc trip out of the low cost pair...... there is a lesson here!

Leo and Nigel on Mont Blanc summit.

Tete Blanche NE Ridge

2011-06-29T13:12:00.000-07:00

Leo and Nigel climbing on the N. E. ridge of Tete Blanche today, a wonderful summit which we climbed from the Cabane du Trient early this morning.

Mont Blanc summit on the 16th June 2011

2011-06-18T07:31:00.000-07:00

So we did a traverse of Mont Blanc from the Cosmiques mountain hut, departing at 1.45 am after a fine breakfast! Then the steady upward climb by head torch light to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, on round then to Mont Maudit, on then to the Col de L' Brenva and the Mur de la Cote, steadily onto the summit. Some flag waving there and Robbie tried to call his local radio station to no avail. We descended by the Bosses Ridge, down to the Goutier hut where we had a drink. We did not stop for long and then short roped down the scramble ridge to cross the Grand Couloir which was stable and well frozen. Down then by passing the Tete Rousse hut, to walk all the way down the train less rack railway tracks to Bellvue and the cable car down to the village of Les Houches. The Storm just started as we stepped away from the Cable car, lucky boys! Robbie J Kelly on the summit of Mont Blanc. You can read more about Robbie, his pals and adventurous plans on http://www.irelandtoeverest.com/

A short break on the shoulder of Mont Maudit as the sun rises in the early morning clear clear fresh air with finger numbing temperatures!

Acclimatisaton day

2011-06-18T07:19:00.000-07:00

After our ascent of the Grand Paridiso we returned to Chamonix fora good nights rest. Early the next morning Robbie and I went up to the Aig du Midi and had a technical day on the Point Lachenal ridge and then went over to spend the night at the Torino refuge. The next day we walked back and descended to Chamonix in the mid morning for lunch and a break. Point Lachenal

The arete du Midi.

Grand Paridiso

2011-06-13T08:35:00.000-07:00

Over the last couple of days have been on the Gran Paridiso. We walked up to the V Emmanuele hut yesterday with Robbie from http://www.irelandtoeverest.com/ and we summited today. We were lucky with the weather and conditions as the mist was down when we left the hut and on the col it was windy and freezing cold.. However by the time we got to the summit it was pretty ace!

Robbie J Kelly on the summit at 0830 hrs this morning!

Vallorcine climbing

2011-06-04T12:02:00.000-07:00

Woke up to rain early this morning in Chamonix, but it cleared up nicely and by 10am we could climb. William and Basil {9 and half years young} climbed their first multi-pitched climb today before flying back to the UK from Geneva..... an ace day! Traversing along the top of the crag to the descent ladders and path.

Big smiles!

Via Ferrata and rock climbing

2011-06-03T09:06:00.000-07:00

An excellent day today with William and Basil, First we were on the Via Ferrata at Passy and later went rock climbing at Le Fayet . Lots of technical skills covered today and Basil top roped his first 5b!

Vallee Blanche, Chamonix

2011-06-02T10:18:00.000-07:00

Quite unpleasant weather here just now with a lot of new snow in the mountains, still we manged an acclimatisation walk on the Vallee Blanche today from the Aig du Midi cable car...the weather is forecast is improve!

Fresh snow in Chamonix today, 1st June 2011.

2011-06-01T10:45:00.000-07:00

Woke up this morning to fresh snow on the lawn outside my window, Wow, 1st of June in Chamonix! Still took the clients for a nice walk up to the Floria and then by the time we returned to the valley the rock was beginning to dry so had a good afternoons rock climbing! Not the best of views from the Floria terrace this morning.

By the afternoon the rock climbing was fun and Basil was able to abseil by the close of the day!

Mer de Glace galcier, ice skills day

2011-05-31T10:36:00.000-07:00

Rainy day in Chamonix after days of incredible warmth and sunshine. Still we had good day on the Mer de Glace, doing basic ice skills such as crampon technique and ice climbing.
Below is Basil, 10 years of age showing that you do not have to be an ancient mountain guide to be an effective ice climber!

Basil on the ladders while his Dad looks on!

Happy days after a busy and adventurous day on the Mer de Glace!

Happy days on the ropes.

2011-05-25T07:15:00.000-07:00

Interesting work in a superb location with good work mates.

Ski mountaineering and Industrail Rope Access

2011-05-18T04:15:00.000-07:00

My life is full of contrasts, all usually rather fantastic. The other day I was ski-mountaineering with a fantastic group of people with Mountain tracks, today I am Baku, Azerbaijan............

The land based oil wells of Baku, you may have seen this previously in a James Bond movie!

Above: a level one IRATA rope access technician demonstrates his skills at the RBG training centre here in Baku.

Just a few days ago I was here and it was also so ace...

Gran Paradis, Italy

2011-05-18T03:58:00.000-07:00

With Mountain Tracks we had planned to ski up Mont Blanc but there was lots of fresh snow with strong Northerly winds so instead, we opted to go to Italy and skied up and down the Gran Paradis. The ascent was via one night at the Refuge Chabot and the following day we went to the summit and descended via the Victor Emmanuell hut.
Below: L to R: Klem, Joe and James on the summit of the Grand Paridis

Joe approaches the summit ridge.

Storm clouds on the Mont Blanc mountain range!

Bernese Oberland, an other amazing day

2011-05-13T12:54:00.000-07:00

Have had an ace week guiding in the Bernese Oberland. Fresh snow last night gave us a superb ski descent from the Abenflu
.

Fresh tracks and we were soon making our own , this photo taken from the Hollandiahutte this morning.

We had to walk about an hour to get to the road head!

IRATA Assessments in Switzerland

2011-05-06T11:56:00.000-07:00

Assessing at Palazieux, Switzerland today where there is very good Petzl distributor and training organisation.

An evening by the sea

2011-05-04T15:03:00.000-07:00

A busy little crag tonight.

Bit chilly in the shade, but good company and nice climbing .

Rope Access

2011-04-28T13:41:00.000-07:00

Interesting little job in Edinburgh over the last few days... building inspection on some recently built high rises by Leith harbour.

Matterhorn

2011-04-26T14:59:00.000-07:00

Another wonderful Haute Route

2011-04-23T03:07:00.000-07:00

Telemark skis from Braemar Mountain Sports,many thanks!

There are several Haute Routes but the classic one is known as the Chamonix to Zermatt ski traverse. This year it was an ace trip with perfect weather and pretty good snow . The North facing slopes offered good snow although sun exposed slopes were rather variable.

View from Mont Blanc de Chelion.

Moira on her telemarks!

Rock climbing in the sun

2011-04-11T01:21:00.000-07:00

Sun kissed rock on the Moray coast yesterday!

Cara's blog

2011-04-08T02:20:00.000-07:00

For an interesting read do check out my daughter's blog! http://thoughtsandgeneralobituaries.blogspot.com

Lochnagar.

2011-04-06T07:35:00.000-07:00

An interesting day on Lochnagar today. The classic lower graded gullies are still complete but have areas of very soft snow. The snow pack is wet and there are signs of rock fall. My pal Alan lent me his tube cutter and scale so that I could take some snow density measurements. Very course grains in the isothermal snow pack today with even a layer of slush. Saw a Lapwing and a Curlew on the walk out. All the above indicators are telling us that spring is here, but usually we do get a lambing storm!! Do not casts away your thermals yet!

The spouts are narrow but complete!

Snow density.

2011-04-05T10:07:00.000-07:00

Measuring snow density at out snow profile site today.

Good times

2011-04-03T12:59:00.000-07:00

A run on the bike today.... ace!

Was on the hill with Kathy yesterday, ski touring is still possible, but many rocks!

IRATA Assessments

2011-04-01T10:05:00.000-07:00

IRATA work at height technicians demonstrating their skills today at Talon NDTs training centre in Aberdeen today. Further information on IRATA is available on www.irata.org

Avalanche forecasting

2011-03-29T09:49:00.000-07:00

A nice day on the hill today!

Ice Climbing, Cairngorms.

2011-03-28T09:43:00.000-07:00

Guiding again today in the Cairngorms, we did Alladins Mirror direct which was in good condition but there was quite a bit of water running down the back and also there is a gap at the top where the main ice pillar joins the main crag! Sandy

Kathy climbed next

and then Colin, his second day of ice climbing.For the afternoon we went and did the Runnell which was in good condition and well frozen.

Northern Cairngorms

2011-03-27T10:07:00.000-07:00

While I loved and still miss the buzz of working in Norway with Remote Trauma and Fever Media, its so ace to be back home. Today I was guiding in the Grampians, better known by us locals as the Cairngorms. Colin on Spiral Gully

Colin further up our climb.

At 4.00 pm the Cairngorm Mountain car park was still busy and there is plenty good skiing to be had!