Monday, 24 August 2009

Creag Dubh, Newtonmore, Scotland, third rock from the sun!

" King bee" direct HVS 5a. The normal non direct route goes at VS and was first climbed by D. haston, J. Moriarity and A. Ewing in 1965, I am not sure who first led the direct route over the small overhang - had better find out!

Andy leading Inbred: a four star HVS first climbed by D. Haston and T. Gooding in 1964

The top pitch of Inbred.
With more than a 100 routes of up to 100 meters in length it's said that Creag Dubh is the finest crag in Scotland. Only 5 kilometers from my back door the horizontal stratified mica schist gives steep and exposed climbing on well spaced with often hard to obtain protection. It's exhilarating and more often than not, quite scary. My Naga Parbat high altitude weakened arms were suffering today!

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