Saturday, 14 January 2012

A'Phocaid, Lairig Ghru to Glen Feshie



Pitch 1.

Pitch 2




With John we climbed a nice grade III on A'Pocaid. Its a long walk in but made easier by the lack of snow and the wonderful new path built last year.Once there the conditions were not so bad. We had wished to climb Spy Glass gully which was first climbed by Simon Richardson and Chris Cartwright, but the first pitch was barely there with lots of water running below the fragile ice. I spotted an interesting looking line on a buttress back to the south so we climbed that in four pitches. A wonderful day!


Pitch 4





Tuesday, 10 January 2012



Opposite photo, we jumped and jumped on this small cornice today and it would not move...



Nice walking and high up there is still quite a bit of snow. This photo :taken from Craig Moseen looking towards Broad Cairn. The rising path comes from the Spittal of Glenmuick along the Loch side and up Corrie Chas to the col between Sandy Hillock and Broad Cairn.

Monday, 9 January 2012

Glenshee

Quite nice snow cover high up!

Sunday, 8 January 2012

Lucky us!




Climbed this interesting line today with Andy, it goes at IV/4 and my pitch was thin, the crux and poorly protected. Great value really as we thought the day would be a bit of a wash out! Lucky us and our tenacity paid off. I think it would be a tricky grade III in proper freezing conditions, but we gave it a IV as thats how we found it and the convention. We still have to name it!

Saturday, 7 January 2012

Lairig Ghru

Was in here today and had good look at Lurchers and Sron na Lairige, but it was not as sheltered and out of the wind as we had hoped and after pottering about we walked out again.
Looking up at Lurchers, ice thin but existing! Steeper lines not complete.

Lurchers





Sron na Lairige.

Thursday, 5 January 2012

Bad viz day... again!!!

Interesting time in the Cairngorms, the weather is all over the place. Lots of fresh snow in the car park at Cairngorm this morning, then by mid afternoon the freezing level had gone up and it was semi thawing around car park level but freezing and so cold with the wind chill a few hundred metres higher. Could not see so much today but there is a good base of snow forming and its looking good, the freezing level is due to come down again so once the winds die down, its looking promising!!!


Monday, 2 January 2012

Indictaors of interest.



As we travel through the mountains there are many ways nature has of letting us know whats been going on with the conditions...
In the above photo, (a bit hard to see in the mist) the snow has been blown from the wind exposed right side into the lee slope on the left of the photo....


The snow adhering to the tree trunk shows wind direction and moisture content of the new snow. The slope behind the tree is blown clear of snow, one has to ask, where has it gone? This wind blown snow eroded from the slope behind will be wind slab laying on a lee slope somewhere else!