Images from our Ama Dablam climb

Climbing past the Dabalam ( big hanging serac) above camp 3

Looking back down the final summit slopes.

On the last ice wall before reaching camp 3.

Breaking out on to the Mushroom ridge!

all photos are Sandy's

Summit success and back in Namche today 28th October

David (Flux) on the Mushroom ridge. Ama Dabalm

Calum Macintyre ( left) and Sandy on the summit of Ama Dablam 25th October 2009 at around 1.00 pm.

Our team on the summit of Ama Dablam ,25th October 2009: back row from left to right are: Calum McIntyre, Kasum Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa. Middle row sitting from Left to right: Richard Lydiatt, Lhakpa Dindi Sherpa, David Flux. In front sitting is Derek Morley. Photo by Sandy and I should say that Dawa Cheri Sherpa was also on the summit with us but does not feature in this photo.

Many thanks to my sister Eunice for up dating the blog with my sat phone reports. This morning 28th October we departed Ama Dablam base camp and will all be back in Namche Bazaar by tonight. We have had a great trip and summited Labouche east , then reached Everest Base camp and Kalapattar and then went on to Ama Dablam base camp. Dave Morris and Matt Evenden did not climb Ama Dablam but they succeeded with the other expedition milestones, Unfortunately Dave had problems clearing phlegm from his breathing tube ( see www.justgiving.com/CalumMacintyre) and
even although he was then put on anti biotics it was simply not prudent for him to attempt Ama Dablam, but the experience of guiding him at high altitudge on Labouche East has been really worth while and I am sure if we have a good chat with the surgeons at Ninewells Hospital, Dundee we may be able to come up with some design improvements and ideas which may help Dave to get higher on other mountains in the future.
On Ama Dablam between Camp 1 and Camp 2 Matt Evenden had to turn back as he had pulled muscle in his back probably caused by coughing lots due to the infamous Khumbu cough, so as it was to painful for Matt to Jumar up the steeper rock walls we saw him safely back to Camp 1 where Matt was able to make his own way back to base camp with the help of our kitchen sherpa staff and Dave Morris. The rest of us climbed on and thanks to Team Ascent logistics and Sandy's very hard working Sherpa team we were able to fix the whole mountain and were the first team to summit. Since then some other climbing teams have rechaed the summit and havevisited our our base camp to say thanks to us for fixing the mountain and establishing the route which is cool and appreciated. There were some big teams who were unable to summit as they could not climb to camp three blaming the bad snow conditions. But our team manged to push the route to the summit and now the mountain is open for all to try! I would like to say thanks to the British Army/ Navy teams who consisted of some war wounded from Afghanistan and other war areas whose good fixed rope was a great help to us. We tried to encourage them to stay on a few extra days and have another go at the summit but they were out of time and had to return to there various postings. Also , I want to say a huge thank you to our climbing Sherpas, Dawa, Kasum, Lhakpa and Lhakpa Dindi.

Our team are doing OK. Some are more tired than others but all are doing fine. It's thought that Calum Macintyre may be the first 16year old to climb the mountain, but he just came to climb and have fun and of course to raise funds for the Teenage Cancer Trust! Well done Calum!

Summit Confirmed

Ama Dablam from Pangboche Village, Oct 2009

Phone call from Sandy at Base Camp at 11.25am. Congratulations to Derek Morley, Richard Lydatt, Calum Macintyre and David Flux along with the four sherpas, Dawa Cheri Sherpa, Lapkha Dendi Sherpa, Kusan Tenzing Sherpa and Lapkha Sherpa who all made the summit of Ama Dablam at 1a.m. yesterday (Pakistan time). All are back at Base Camp excepting Calum and his sherpas who are taking their time to come down off the mountain. All are well.

The Sherpas and Sandy fixed ropes to the summit yesterday and everyone reached the summit at about 1a.m. They were the first of several climbers on the mountain to reach the summit and other climbers are making summit bids today. They will have a rest day today and tomorrow at Base Camp (well, they will be tidying and preparing their gear for the walk-out) too Namche Bazaar the following day. They aim to be in Namche on the 29th October.

PS Excellent News irrespective if names are spelt incorrectly!!

SUMMIT REACHED

Email message from a clients wife today. She received a call from her husband who, along with one other member, had remained at base camp. They received a call today to say that everyone else had made the summit. They are tonight all resting at Camp 3 and will come down the mountain tomorrow. Congratulations to all. I expect a phone call from Sandy when everyone is back at base camp.

A special well done to Calum Macintyre, age 16, who is raising funds for the Teenage Cancer Trust (Charity No. 1062559). To find out more and if you wish to sponsor him, please log into http://www.justgiving.com/CalumMacintyre The photo shows Calum, his father and the teams sirdar, Dawa Sherpa near Everest Base Camp just before they set of for Ama Dablam.

Sherpas

Team Ascent has, over the years built up great support teams, in the various countries they visit. In Nepal and on the current trip too Ama Dablam, the Nepalese Sherpas provide huge support and skill. Sherpas are traditionally Buddhists of Tibettan descent and are renowned for their mountaineering skill. The photo above is of Kusan Sherpa melting snow at Labouche High Camp around 5560 m on 16th October. At high altititude dehydration can be a huge problem. You exhale and perspire at much greater rates than at sea level and the low air pressure results in greater evaporation from your skin and lungs so its really important that you have a very high fluid consumption. This is no mean feat when you are in a frozen environment! One of the major and probably most time consuming chores of high altitude climbing is melting snow for brews! Bear in mind that although the snow/ice is plentiful, the equipment and fuel has to be carried up (and of course, the matches have to be remembered and kept dry!!).

The other photo shows Sherpa Lhakpa at some prayer wheels on the way-in to Ama Dablam and who will at this very moment, be up on the mountain with the team. He has summited Everest five times and climbed Ama Dablam twice.

Labouche and its Summit

En route...narrow ridge....thin air....!

Getting near the summit..its been a long way and we are still smiling...almost!

On the main summit of Labouche, 6584 m.

Climbing Tomorrow

The Team Ascent Team at Everest Base Camp!

Brief phone call from Sandy today and the promised email has arrived via an unexpected but welcome route!

As scheduled, the team will start their main climb to Camp 1 tomorrow. Everyone is well.

The plan...

Oct 22 Move up to Camp 1 and spend the night.

Oct 23 Climb up to Camp 2.

Oct 24th Move up to camp 3.

Oct 25th Camp 3 too summit and return to a lower camp.

Oct 26th Return to base camp.
Oct 27th Pack and tidy base camp.

Oct 28th Depart base camp and walk to Namche bazaar.

Oct 29th Walk to Phakting.

Oct 30/31st fly from Lukla to Katmandu.
2nd Nov fly home.